Monday, August 16, 2010

Sweet'n'smoky corn-tomato chili

It's that time of year: tomatoes are ripening furiously, we've got corn up to our, uh, ears, and the hot chili peppers are coming into full bounty. That means there's only one thing to do: make salsa!

Oh! and chili!

Two things to do: salsa, chili, and an almost fanatical devotion to the pope. Three things!

Ahem.

Anyway, chili. Some people will insist that true chili is little more than spicy ground beef in a smoky sauce... none of these fancy vege-tables like beans and tomatoes. Personally, I think that's great if you're going to put it on a hot dog or some nachos, but I'm much more open-minded when it comes to chili by the bowl.

In this sense, chili is the perfect dish for the entropic chef, because you can sneak almost anything into it and still have it come out tasting pretty good. In Cincinnati, they even make it with cocoa and cinnamon, a trick I've tried a few times with pretty good success. But for today, I'm going back to basics, more or less.

Ingredients:

5 large tomatoes (the riper, the better)
3 jalapeno-style peppers
4 ears of corn
1 medium onion, chopped coarsely
1/2 red bell pepper, sliced into thin 1" strips
3 cloves garlic, minced
chili powder
ground cumin
ground coriander
salt and pepper
optional:
ground beef/turkey
kielbasa
1 can kidney beans
whole coriander (maybe a dozen seeds)

Before we delve into the chili, though, we've got to do a little prep work. I actually did this the night before, at the same time as I was making a grilled dinner.

Skewer 3 jalapeno-style hot peppers and grill them until their skin turns dark-brown and blisters. When cool, slice in half, remove the skin and scrape out the seeds. Three peppers will give your chili a little kick, stopping just shy of providing an actual "heat" sensation. If you like your chili hotter, leave some of the seeds in.

You'll also want to grill the corn. There are several methods to do this, but it's basically a trade-off of how much work you want to do and how good the finished product will be. You want a nice browning-blackening of a good portion of the kernels, but the entire cob should also be cooked through. What I've found seems to work is first to peel away all but the last couple layers of husk, then peel those down but don't remove them from the ear. Clean up all the silk, then carefully fold the attached husks back up to cover the ear. Soak the ears in water for ~30 minutes, then place on the grill directly over the coals (or flames, if that's your bag). Depending on how hot your grill is, you'll need to turn the corn every 2-5 minutes. When your corn has some nice fire marks on each side, remove and cool. Slice the kernels off the cob.

OK, now on to the chili itself. If you don't mind bits of tomato peels floating around in your chili, simply core your tomatoes and chop them up. Otherwise peel them first and then do the same. Place the tomatoes in a large pot and cook over medium. Meanwhile, drizzle ~2 Tbsp of vegetable oil into a skillet and saute the onion and red bell pepper over medium until the onions are translucent. During the last two minutes of sauteing, add the minced garlic. Add the entire pan to the tomatoes. At the same time, add the grilled pepper halves (either whole or sliced) and the corn. Generously add chili powder -- a tablespoon at least. It's hard to overdo chili powder in chili. Add ground cumin and ground coriander to your taste (I think I did about a teaspoon of each). (Note, if you are using ground beef or turkey, I'd recommend adding half or more of the spices into the meat itself while it browns, and add the cooked meat to the chili at this point, along with the rest of the spices.) Let simmer for 10 minutes and taste the broth. Decide if it needs salt or pepper or more roasted chili seeds for heat. Simmer for 10 more minutes, then add beans, kielbasa, and/or whole coriander seeds if you want any of these. Finally, let simmer for another 10-20 minutes and then serve.

Some notes: I actually split the chili into two separate recipes after adding the corn and spices, so as to make a vegetarian version for my wife and an omnivorous recipe for myself. They were basically the same except the veggie chili contained beans, while mine had kielbasa and whole coriander instead. Kielbasa might seem like an odd choice, but true to the theme of this blog, it was what I had around and ready -- actually it was the leftovers of the previous night's grilling. For the coriander seeds, I actually used green ones from the cilantro plants in our garden -- the flavor kind of splits the difference between the freshness of cilantro and the sweet citrusy flavor of the dried coriander.

I was actually surprised at how sweet the chili turned out, especially without any added sugar or other sweetener. Starting from fresh, ripe tomatoes set the stage, and using a large amount of sweet corn along with the red bell pepper only increased the sucrosity. If that's not your thing, I'd say cut back on the corn, or add some lime juice, lemon juice, or white vinegar. But I personally had no problem with the way things turned out, so I'm counting it as a success, even if slightly unintended.